Nepal 2009 – Paddling.

The promise of big white water, people eating stoppers and technical elements that are unreachable in this country. Nepal’s whitewater is supposedly some of the best on the planet and is a draw for paddlers the world over. This first set of images from Nepal includes some of the paddling, the people we met and the modes of transport that we have for transporting 8 boats across this country.

Across the trip we employed several modes of transport. Buses, rickshaws, pickups, 4×4′s and countless minibuses all were part of our journey and took us onto some of the worlds most dangerous roads. The first experience of this was at Kathmandu International Airport where it felts like a scene straight out of a Michael Palin documentary. People harassing you  left right and centre trying help you carry your kit to the fist minibus, decorating you like a christmas tree with flowers and demanding tips for the privilege of things that you didn’t really want. Unsure even if we were with the right people, meeting Santos pictured above) for the first time we didn’t really know who he was but  seemed to be expecting us. It was strange as even though the location, vehicle and circumstances were all completely different the well practiced routine of getting kayaks up onto the roof and tied on felt like the most natural thing. This was most people concentration was, as we loaded up the bus with gear however I suddenly noticed that the youngest member of our group was in the bus already. With a big crowd of people blocking the door demanding tips. We laughed and told him to hang on as the job of loading up was finished and while an attempt was made to try and block us in until we paid, the first driver that we had was having none of it as he drove through the parting crowd and we departed the airport.

First job on the morning after we arrived was to put the rickshaw drivers to work. Loading up their bikes with as much kit as possible without making the thing go along popping a wheeley. As the bikes set off there was slight apprehension as we watched these boats that we had brought 700km across the world disappear down streets of a city that we didn’t know and weave their way through the chaotic traffic. Both the bikes and ourselves ended up a couple of streets away down a hill where one of the main bus parks was.

The Paddling itself did not disappoint. In at the deep end paddling the high volume Botakosi on the first day, still a little jet lagged this was one hell of an indroduction to Nepali Whitewater. Day after day we were confronted with ginormous waves, continuous rapids and the opportunity to let the river take you to parts of the country that are not normally seen by the other visitors to this country. The village of Jalbrie was one such place where upon arrival the kids were keen to put on all our kit, climb in our boats and wave our paddles around.

Every now and then we would come across reminders of the outside world and the influences that come into this country. The second night was spent at Sukute beach one of the main Stop overs for paddlers taking part in the world famous Himalayan Whitewater Challenge. This fridge in the background locked with a padlock has stickers of kayak companies and shops on it including several from Nottingham, Uk. A place that seems like it should have no relevance to this.

One particular minibus that we got was not suited to putting boats on at all. The roof rack was tiny in comparison to the size of the bus meaning that the initial load up was rather interesting with every combination tried to get these boats on. Even though the bus was crammed full of people and kit, there was an attempt to get the final boat inside. To which one member of our group declared that ‘he wasn’t happy with this’ as he exited the vehicle by the window (the only available way to get out) and took charge , tying the remaining boat on as a floaty boat (on thats just tied on the side and not really to anything). Gradually as we drove this boat moved down meaning that it had to be lifted before we could get out of the door.

The whitewater may look like it has calmed and flattened from the bank, from the water it can often be a different story. Paddling along can is often interrupted by disappearing into and through massive waves that don’t seem to exist when looking from the bank.

Off the river entertainment was self created, ranging from general wrestling in the water to practical jokes. The best of which was on the beach camp on the Kali Gandaki, waking early in the morning and going to go take photos I went for a walk finding a good viewpoint for the morning sunrise. Seeing Santos digging I wonder what he’s doing, when he ask’s me – “which is tall Sam’s Boat’. Suddenly I realise he is going to bury his boat, knowing how funny this was going to be I grabbed a couple of quick shots of sunrise then got my paddle and helped dig.

As predicted the reaction from Sam was one of not being impressed and a general air of being pissed. Something which we found hilarious, and each time Sam’s back was turned we broke out into fits of giggles before having to regain composure as he looked back.

The reveal – as he found his boat. No police had to be called in the making of this joke.

The retaliation, Me and Sam paddled Santos’s Boat across to the other side of the river during the night and dug it in on end.

Entertainment often came in many different forms.

Full credit has to go to the Guys from Paddle Nepal who we paddled with while out there, they sorted everything brilliantly for us and we couldn’t of asked for anything more from our guide/fixer and main man Santos. Paddle nepal are based in Pohkara and their shop is among the many in the Lakeside district offering adventurous activities beyond kayaking such as Whitewater rafting and Canyoning.

This is the first in a set of images from Nepal.

Sim.

4 thoughts on “Nepal 2009 – Paddling.

  1. Great to see the first instalment of photos and journal. Look forward to learning more about Nepal.

  2. Pingback: Black to White | Sim Davis

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